Some lines are just too easy. And if she won't do it, I will...

“I thought it would be much, much bigger,” said one of my companions.


Indeed, Frank, Indeed.

Porchetta

Just to weigh in on the whole Jason Neroni thing. Old friend of mine used to roll her eyes when I would do something clumsy (which was often). "Cute, but not so bright," she'd say. I was a huge fan of Porchetta--ate there at least five times, usually had the lemon gnocchi which did not taste like lemon pledge at all. Neroni did incredible things with classic Italian dishes--I remember having a carpaccio with candied fennel seeds. So I was happy to see the review give him a star, even if it wasn't completely effusive. I was a little disappointed at Bruni's personal criticism of Neroni, which has no place in a review (a different topic, one which I'm sure the count will allow me to redress soon enough). But now, it seems, Neroni's personal life is fair game. Talented, but not so bright. And possibly on speed. It would explain the behavior, and from past interactions he and his erstwhile pastry chef do come off as a little, what's the word, distracted? Fidgety?

But the good news: even though it's farewell to Lupa on Smith, the owner is reopening within the next two weeks. Word is it's going to be a steak joint...Stay tuned.

I didn't make any mention of this in my "manifesto" , but the whole point of the blog, the flash of inspiration was when my chef put a grouper head in the toilet to scare the first bathroom goer lucky enough to find it...kitchenpranks was born. i don't have that picture anymore, so here's what i did to my thumb a couple of months ago-it's still numb where i sliced it.

Bruni the waiter

Comment left in dining section, something I've been meaning to write about but kept forgetting and Frank was kind enough to remind me:

While I have nothing but respect for the front of the house, I wanted to comment on Frank's having waited tables. I reacted to that article strongly when it first came out, only to be reminded of it in this years Best Food Writing. Frank says it's hard, the hours are long, the pay is not great. Maybe it's sour grapes, but working four or five shifts a week doesn't seem like that much? Standing on your feet for six whole hours without a break? Frank says, "If they put in a full schedule of four prime shifts a week, they might make $45,000 a year before taxes. Almost all of it is from tips. They wonder if diners realize that." But I'd be curious to see what Frank's tank on the other side of the line is--what of the line cook, on his feet ten or twelve hours a day with no break, working five or six days a week, going home with $34,000 a year, before taxes, if he's lucky? What about the debt that she racked up from that fancy culinary school? I'd like to see that article...

Right, so I said I would try not to hate too much, but this blog has been inattentive of late, and failed to make any mention of this review. About which I have to say only this: when the newspaper of record starts to review places that are obviously trying to cater to the lowest common denominator, what's next, Applebees? Seriously Frank, quit it.

But the good news is this: Rising Star David Chang is opening yet another restaurant, and moving the original Noodle Bar into a bigger space. Which just might mean that when I feel like picking up some ramen to go, I won't have to call first. And that would be nice.

and this...

I can post from my phone, so watch out.